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Calla’s Modern Florals

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Designer Calla Haynes has planted a fresh seed within a time-honoured tradition. Inspired by the natural progression of prints through the ages, by a way of a strong interior décor influence, Calla reworks charming Liberty-style prints and enchanting watercolours.

Her early collections are strongly reminiscent of the Rococo era. In later collections, patterns take on an early sixties influence, suggestive of the glory days of Laura Ashley and always within the framework of relaxed, wearable luxury. Calla’s prints often begin with a chance encounter with a blossom tree in full bloom, captured with a snap of the iPhone. The image is then digitally manipulated and applied with a soft flourish to fine organically sourced material. This process, dubbed ‘photoshoporphasis’ creates a species of print entirely unto itself, ready to be applied to the feminine silhouettes of her sketches and taking the classic floral print to a different realm. 

With Balenciaga and Dries Van Noten championing the concept of evolving the floral print, this season, both Preen and Peter Som also bring bright updates to their characteristic patterns; with pixilation on pretty lace and painted bulbs ornamenting voluminous silks. Meanwhile, Hussein Chalayan, master of the avant-garde, imposes a hint of techno shimmer on rich crafted-flower detailing creating an edgy antidote to the full bloom.

With London’s Chelsea Flower Show just around the bend, take your pick from the playfully feminine or ultramodern. With such a rich array of possibilities, embrace the eternal charm of the fleur du jour.


CALLA HAYNES SPEAKS TO AVENUE 32


What originally attracted you to floral prints?

I usually love floral prints for their softness and femininity.  The shapes of petals can be so beautiful and give a nice roundness to compositions.  As a textile designer, floral prints are a no-brainer go-to theme.

How have floral prints evolved through the history of interiors and fashion?

I think the strong trends in floral prints have been closely related to the trends in decorative arts of the time, as well as their end usage.  The evolving styles of the decorative arts (from the Arts and Crafts movement to Art Nouveau to Art Deco etc.) have always been expressed in textiles, and as floral prints are a real base, they have been reinterpreted time after time. The printing technology of the last 10-15 years has allowed us to interpret florals in a photo-realist way that was difficult before. The rendering possibilities are now endless.

What parts of this aesthetic tradition have been the most influential (to you and/or others)?

When I look at vintage patterns, I'm always drawn to the compositions of the designs... the flow, the repeat of the pattern. This really helps me develop my own work.

Why do these prints remain so relevant and desirable in fashion today?

Floral prints as a general theme will always be relevant like stripes or polka dots.  What will make them stay exciting is the way designers reinterpret them each season. I think this past season they were so much fun to play with because colour played such a strong role in collections.

 


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